Lotus Silk: Overcoming Asymmetrical Dependencies

Lotus silk has been produced in South Asia for many centuries. As obtaining the fibers and processing them into thread is extremely resource and labor intensive, lotus silk is one of the most precious natural fibers. As a result, wearing clothing made from lotus silk was reserved for a very small number of people for a long time and highlighted their religious, political, or economic power. The producers, on the other hand, did not benefit from the preciousness of the fibers, but instead remained in the asymmetrical relationships of dependency that forced them to continue the laborious task of processing lotus. However, a change is now emerging and global demand for lotus silk is increasing. Since the high-end segment of the fashion industry has been using lotus silk to produce luxury clothing, its manufacture has been offering local farmers additional sources of income and thus the opportunity of economic security and independence.

Lotus: Symbol of Purity and Enlightenment  

The pink or white flowering lotus is considered to be a symbol of enlightenment and the purity of mind and soul in India and in East and Southeast Asia (fig. 1). The deep symbolism of lotus and its close links to the sacred are reflected in religious and philosophical literature as well as in myths and legends. Immediately after his birth, Siddharta Gautama, the first Buddha, took seven steps and a lotus flowered in each of his footprints (fig. 2). One of the most well-known texts of Mahayana Buddhism is the “Lotus Sutra,” and the lotus also has a firm place in religious iconography. Many mandalas, which are important for Hindu and Buddhist prayer and meditation practices, are inspired by the basic structure of a lotus flower (fig. 3). Buddhas, “the awakened”, are often depicted sitting on a lotus throne (fig. 4). Buddhists and Hindus offer up lotus flowers in temples and shrines as an expression of their religious worship (fig. 5).  

Fig. 1: Lotus flowers (photo: B. Ihde, 2023). 

Fig. 2: Buddha takes seven steps after his birth and a lotus flower comes out in each of his footprints (photo: Shutterstock, 2288574135, license 2024).

Fig. 4: The meditating Buddha on the lotus throne (photo: Shutterstock, 97257167, license 2024). 

The Preciousness of the Lotus  

Today, however, the lotus not only has religious significance but also a high economic value. For many farmers, growing lotus is an important source of income (fig. 6 + 7). They supply their flower harvest to lotus dealers or sell the precious plants themselves at markets and in front of temples. The less attractive parts of the lotus plant, such as the roots, stems, leaves and seed heads, also contribute to their income. They are eaten as vegetables or dried and made into tea or flour, which is then used to make various dishes. The stems and leaves of the lotus can also be made into fibers, which are among the most expensive natural textile raw materials worldwide. The thread made from them is worked into lotus silk and exclusive clothing, which only a small number of people were allowed to wear. Lotus silk, which was produced by the women of Intha on Inle Lake in Myanmar, was initially exclusively intended for high Buddhist monks and highlighted their position in the religious hierarchy. Garments made from lotus silk are still extremely exclusive today. However, the often religion-based access restriction has long since become an economic one. In the global fashion industry, lotus silk is in great demand as one of the world’s most precious natural fibers. High-end fashion labels use it to produce exclusive clothing for affluent customers, which has caused demand for the raw material to grow steadily for years. 

Fig. 6: Lotus field prior to harvesting (photo: B. Ihde, 2023). 

Fig. 7: Lotus farm (photo: B. Ihde, 2023). 

Ways out of Dependency: Fair and Sustainable Production of Lotus Silk  

Lotus silk is not only pleasant to wear, but its manufacture is also sustainable and, in view of the exploitation mechanisms of the global textile industry, offers unusually strong potential for fair remuneration for producers. After all, the fibers can only be obtained and processed where the lotus grows and is cultivated in large quantities. The stems and leaves used to obtain the fibers must be worked into thread within 24 hours while constantly being moistened. To prevent the fresh thread from breaking, it is then rewound several times and finally treated with rice starch to prevent it from breaking. The fiber is still produced exclusively by hand to this day and has refused to be mechanized. As a result, this additional source of income for lotus farmers has not yet been threatened by the use of machines or the relocation of production.  

For lotus farmers, thread production is a welcome supplementary income. This is because the stems and leaves, which accumulate in large quantities following the lotus harvest, can also be recycled and are no longer left to rot. Small weaving mills run by local sole traders and, in some cases, cooperatives now provide the necessary access to the sales markets for lotus thread. One Cambodian example is Samatoa, a farmers’ cooperative near the old royal capital of Siem Reap. With support from French activist Awen Delaval, a small lotus silk factory was created, which processes almost 100% of the waste products from the surrounding lotus farms. The lotus thread, which is primarily manufactured at home, is worked into lengths of fabric on the cooperative’s weaving looms. This is then used to sew clothes in the cooperative’s tailor’s workshop according to designer patterns or made to measure according to the customer’s wishes. Alongside the main product lotus silk, the cooperative also produces lotus paper, soap, tea, jewelry, and vegan leather. It sells the products to tourists in its own shop and worldwide via the Internet (https://lotussilkfarm.com/shop-lotus-silk-clothes/).  

From Lotus Field to Ball of Thread 

The production of thread from lotus stems is a laborious process and one person manufactures around 80-100 m thread per working day. After harvesting, the stems are first stored in water until their little thorns are removed with a metal sponge (fig. 8 + 9). Then the actual fiber production begins: several stems are held in a bundle and scored and broken every 5-7 cm (fig. 10). When the breaking points are pulled apart, the fibers emerge, which, from a morphological point of view, are more of a secretion that reinforces the cell walls of the lotus (fig. 11). This secretion is only turned into thread during the manufacturing process, when it is pulled onto a damp board and then rolled (fig. 12). This creates short thread ends, which are joined together again and again by further moistening and rolling, and then wound and rewound several times (fig. 13). The thread is constantly moistened during this to retain its elasticity. Only when the rewinding process has ensured that the thread no longer breaks is it treated with rice starch and can then be woven into fabric dyed or in its natural state. 

Fig. 8: Storage of lotus stems until further processing at the Samatoa cooperative/Cambodia (photo: B. Ihde, 2023). 

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Further Reading

Chaw Su Hlang, 2016. Lotus Robe in Kyaing Khan Village Innlay Lake, Shan State (South): An Anthropological Perspective. In: Dagon University Research Journal 2016, Vol. 7/1 pp: 91-102. 

Herpell, Gabriela, 2023. Die schwimmenden Gärten von Birma. In: Süddeutsche Zeitung Magazin (https://web.archive.org/web/20130329215443/http://sz-magazin.sueddeutsche.de/texte/anzeigen/35607/1/1). 

Philipsson, Alice, 2020. The Fabric of Success: How ‚Lotus Silk‘ is weaving its way into Vietnam. Courthouse News Service. 

Rusch, Waltraud, 2017. Lotusseide aus Myanmar. Die Faser, die im Wasser wächst. Schriftenreihe Textil-Kultur-Mode. Fachverband …textil..e.V. Wissenschaft-Forschung-Bildung. BoD. 

Stevens, Wilfried, 2017. Lotus-Seide – ein edler Stoff. Eine der ungewöhnlichsten Stoffarten der Welt. DER FARAN. Newsportal für Urlauber & Residenten in Thailand. 

Theingi Myint et al., 2018. Lotus Fiber Value Chain in Myanmar. A study conducted on behalf of the Regional Biotrade Project. Helvetas Vietnam-Laos-Myanmar.