{"id":466,"date":"2024-09-16T14:53:39","date_gmt":"2024-09-16T12:53:39","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/bcdss-recette.mazedia.fr\/die-urspruenge-des-dirndls-textildruck-und-globale-abhaengigkeiten\/"},"modified":"2024-10-14T14:52:48","modified_gmt":"2024-10-14T12:52:48","slug":"die-urspruenge-des-dirndls-textildruck-und-globale-abhaengigkeiten","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/en\/die-urspruenge-des-dirndls-textildruck-und-globale-abhaengigkeiten\/","title":{"rendered":"The Origins of the Dirndl: Textile Printing and Global Dependencies"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<div class=\"wp-block-group\"><div class=\"wp-block-group__inner-container is-layout-constrained wp-block-group-is-layout-constrained\">\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Jutta Wimmler<br>BCDSS Research Group Leader<\/h4>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>The \u201ctraditional\u201d Austrian and Bavarian women\u2019s dress has its origins in the early modern period and is connected to American plantations and European expansion. The characteristic patterns of the skirts and aprons developed with the rise of textile printing in Europe, and depended on dyeing materials extracted by enslaved laborers.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>In the fifteenth century, Columbus \u201cdiscovered\u201d America and Vasco da Gama circumvented the African continent and reached India. This had a profound impact on European material culture, especially in the textile sector. Indian artisans were much more skilled than Europeans in creating beautifully colored fabrics. Europeans first imported them, and later tried to imitate them with the help of expert migrant workers, especially from Armenia. This led to a major technological breakthrough in the seventeenth century: the development of textile printing. Before this development, European artisans usually wove or stitched colorful patterns onto cloth. Printing works differently: patterns are applied to a piece of cloth with a wooden (later a copper) block on which the pattern is engraved. While this seems simple, it actually required the creation of high-quality dyes that would fuse permanently with the fiber \u2013 otherwise the color would quickly disappear when the cloth was washed or exposed to the sun. Textiles printed in the \u201cAsian style\u201d in Europe were usually cheaper than the original Asian imports, so more people could afford them. The reason such prints were cheap in the early modern period is that Europeans had easy access to the raw materials needed for it \u2013 the dyeing materials primarily came from the newly \u201cdiscovered\u201d Americas and from Africa and were extracted by enslaved laborers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-default is-cropped wp-block-gallery-1 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"1399\" src=\"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/WIMMLER_1_Fig.-1_Ausseer-Dirndl-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1399\" srcset=\"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/WIMMLER_1_Fig.-1_Ausseer-Dirndl-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/WIMMLER_1_Fig.-1_Ausseer-Dirndl-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/WIMMLER_1_Fig.-1_Ausseer-Dirndl-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/WIMMLER_1_Fig.-1_Ausseer-Dirndl.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-small-font-size\">Fig. 1: Ausseer Dirndl (drawing: A. Sch\u00fcssler, 2024).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-columns is-layout-flex wp-container-core-columns-is-layout-9d6595d7 wp-block-columns-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>The \u201ctraditional\u201d women\u2019s dress in Austria and Bavaria \u2013 the dirndl \u2013 was originally a textile print. Today, they are no longer produced this way, but if you visit Altaussee in Styria, home to one of the most famous Austrian dirndls, you can still see wooden blocks showcased in some shops. Dirndl fabrics were usually a special subvariety of textile prints, called reverse or resist printing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>Further Reading<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Chassagne, Serge, 2003. &#8220;Calico in Printing in Europe Before 1780.&#8221; In David Jenkins (ed.), <em>The Cambridge History of Western Textiles Vol. I<\/em>, 513\u201328. Cambridge: Cambridge Univ. Press.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Edwards, Eiluned, 2019. \u201cIndian Block Printing: Technology, Entrepreneurship, and Innovation Across Time and Place.\u201d In Kim Siebenh\u00fcner, John Jordan, and Gabi Schopf (eds.), <em>Cotton in Context: Manufacturing, Marketing, and Consuming Textiles in the German-speaking World 1500\u20131900<\/em>, 61\u201387. Cologne: B\u00f6hlau.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Riello, Giorgio, 2010. &#8220;Asian Knowledge and the Development of Calico Printing in Europe in the Seventeenth and Eighteenth Centuries.&#8221; <em>Journal of Global History<\/em> 5: 1\u201328.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Jutta WimmlerBCDSS Research Group Leader The \u201ctraditional\u201d Austrian and Bavarian women\u2019s dress has its origins in the early modern period and is connected to American plantations and European expansion. The characteristic patterns of the skirts and aprons developed with the rise of textile printing in Europe, and depended on dyeing materials extracted by enslaved laborers. [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":464,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"themenfeld":[43,45],"class_list":["post-466","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-uncategorized-en","themenfeld-strong-asymmetrical-dependencies","themenfeld-spindle-loom-needle"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/466","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=466"}],"version-history":[{"count":6,"href":"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/466\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2237,"href":"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/466\/revisions\/2237"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/464"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=466"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=466"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=466"},{"taxonomy":"themenfeld","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/themenfeld?post=466"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}