{"id":486,"date":"2024-09-16T14:28:53","date_gmt":"2024-09-16T12:28:53","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/bcdss-recette.mazedia.fr\/weisses-leinen-zu-einem-sozio-kulturellen-abhaengigkeitsgewebe-im-pharaonischen-aegypten\/"},"modified":"2025-06-27T16:49:41","modified_gmt":"2025-06-27T14:49:41","slug":"weisses-leinen-zu-einem-sozio-kulturellen-abhaengigkeitsgewebe-im-pharaonischen-aegypten","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/en\/weisses-leinen-zu-einem-sozio-kulturellen-abhaengigkeitsgewebe-im-pharaonischen-aegypten\/","title":{"rendered":"White Linen: On a Sociocultural Network of Dependency in Pharaonic Egypt\u00a0"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<div class=\"wp-block-group\"><div class=\"wp-block-group__inner-container is-layout-constrained wp-block-group-is-layout-constrained\">\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Frank F\u00f6rster &amp; Ludwig Morenz<br>BCDSS Investigator &amp; BCDSS Principal Investigator&nbsp;<\/h4>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>For thousands of years, the color \u201cwhite\u201d was associated with the notion of <em>purity <\/em>in the Nile Valley, elevating it above the colorful and dirty everyday life. This symbolically charged <em>purity<\/em> played a major role in the broad field of the sacred in the Pharaonic Era and, not least, the cult of the gods. At the same time, this white purity required effort, suited certain ways of life, and thus implied a high social status.<\/strong><strong><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>White Clothing: Status and Symbolism<\/strong><strong><\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>In Pharaonic Egypt, white linen was a product and indicator of high culture and belonged to the typical cultural inventory of elite status. Owning high-quality textiles corresponded to the consumption of meat or wine as culinary luxury goods.<a href=\"#_edn1\" id=\"_ednref1\">[1]<\/a> Mixing aspects of aesthetics with status, clothing made from white linen was thus worn by the top elites (fig. 1).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-default is-cropped wp-block-gallery-1 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"895\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"2058\" src=\"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-1_2016-03-29_Rahotep_Nofret_01-895x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2058\" srcset=\"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-1_2016-03-29_Rahotep_Nofret_01-895x1024.jpg 895w, https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-1_2016-03-29_Rahotep_Nofret_01-262x300.jpg 262w, https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-1_2016-03-29_Rahotep_Nofret_01-768x879.jpg 768w, https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-1_2016-03-29_Rahotep_Nofret_01.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 895px) 100vw, 895px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-small-font-size\">Fig. 1: Statues of Rahotep and Nofret, early 4th dynasty, c. 2600 BC, Egyptian Museum Cairo, CG 3 and 4 (photo: Djehouty, 2016, license:&nbsp;CC&nbsp;BY-SA 4.0, <a href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-sa\/4.0\/deed.en\">https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-sa\/4.0\/deed.en<\/a>).&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-columns is-layout-flex wp-container-core-columns-is-layout-9d6595d7 wp-block-columns-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>Correspondingly, bleached white linen was also considered a basic element of (otherworldly) care in the culture of funerals \u2013 i.e., the world of tombs and thus our main archaeological source for the culture of Ancient Egypt. It is therefore mentioned in the offering formulas documented thousands of times in Hieroglyphic inscriptions or shown in the offering lists.<a href=\"#_edn2\" id=\"_ednref2\">[2]<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Since the early third and even the fourth millennium BC, the fabric quality was also differentiated in the language according to thread density. With this in mind, the word sjA \u2013 \u201cpower of recognition\u201d \u2013 was written with the hieroglyph \u201cStrips of Line\u201d ( , <em>sign list<\/em> p 32), and the technological capital necessary for fabric production was likely considered high-tech and correspondingly prestigious and sought-after in the fourth millennium BC, from which the oldest known depiction of a (horizontal) loom also originates (fig. 2)<a href=\"#_edn3\" id=\"_ednref3\">[3]<\/a>. The hieroglyph &nbsp;thus articulates, insofar as it represents \u201cpower of recognition\u201d metaphorically, the high social appreciation of fabric technology.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-default is-cropped wp-block-gallery-2 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" data-id=\"2060\" src=\"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-2_339483_277426225635395_72548363_o-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2060\" srcset=\"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-2_339483_277426225635395_72548363_o-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-2_339483_277426225635395_72548363_o-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-2_339483_277426225635395_72548363_o-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-2_339483_277426225635395_72548363_o.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-small-font-size\">Fig. 2: Oldest known depiction of a horizontal loom on a prehistoric painted clay bowl from Egypt, ca. 3600 BC, London, Petrie Museum UC 9547 (Badari, tomb 3802) (photo: Petrie Museum, University College London, n. d.).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-columns is-layout-flex wp-container-core-columns-is-layout-9d6595d7 wp-block-columns-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>In contrast to the textile production of other ancient cultures, thanks to Egypt\u2019s dry climate, numerous textiles have been preserved in the tombs of the nobility in the Nile Valley, which are today spread across many museums around the world. The Egyptian Museum at the University of Bonn also has several linen fabrics of various sizes, colors, and qualities from the Pharaonic Era, which attest to the high standard of the art of weaving on the Nile, but still await more detailed scientific treatment (fig. 3 + 4).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-default is-cropped wp-block-gallery-3 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"893\" data-id=\"2062\" src=\"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-3_240730-vl-3007-2-Kopie-1024x893.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2062\" srcset=\"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-3_240730-vl-3007-2-Kopie-1024x893.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-3_240730-vl-3007-2-Kopie-300x262.jpg 300w, https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-3_240730-vl-3007-2-Kopie-768x669.jpg 768w, https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-3_240730-vl-3007-2-Kopie.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-small-font-size\">Fig. 3: Linen cloth with fringed border (65.5 x 57.5 cm), Egyptian Museum Bonn BoSAe 3007, donated by Annemarie M\u00fcller-Feldmann, provenance and date unclear (photo: V. Lannert, 2024).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-columns is-layout-flex wp-container-core-columns-is-layout-9d6595d7 wp-block-columns-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-default is-cropped wp-block-gallery-4 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"547\" data-id=\"2064\" src=\"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-4a_1-MF3154-1024x547.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2064\" srcset=\"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-4a_1-MF3154-1024x547.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-4a_1-MF3154-300x160.jpg 300w, https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-4a_1-MF3154-768x410.jpg 768w, https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-4a_1-MF3154.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" data-id=\"2067\" src=\"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-4b_2-IMG_8532-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2067\" srcset=\"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-4b_2-IMG_8532-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-4b_2-IMG_8532-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-4b_2-IMG_8532-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-4b_2-IMG_8532.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-small-font-size\">Fig. 4a &#8211; d: Large linen cloth (ca. 270 x 105 cm), Egyptian Museum Bonn BoSAe 3154, donated by Annemarie M\u00fcller-Feldmann, origin and dating unclear (photo: P. Linscheid, 2021).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-columns is-layout-flex wp-container-core-columns-is-layout-9d6595d7 wp-block-columns-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-default is-cropped wp-block-gallery-5 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"747\" data-id=\"1616\" src=\"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-4c_3-MF3154-Schussfransen.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1616\" srcset=\"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-4c_3-MF3154-Schussfransen.jpeg 1024w, https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-4c_3-MF3154-Schussfransen-300x219.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-4c_3-MF3154-Schussfransen-768x560.jpeg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"748\" data-id=\"1618\" src=\"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-4d_4-MF3154-vereinzelte-gespleisste-Fa\u0308den.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1618\" srcset=\"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-4d_4-MF3154-vereinzelte-gespleisste-Fa\u0308den.jpeg 1024w, https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-4d_4-MF3154-vereinzelte-gespleisste-Fa\u0308den-300x219.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-4d_4-MF3154-vereinzelte-gespleisste-Fa\u0308den-768x561.jpeg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-small-font-size\">Fig. 4a &#8211; d: Large linen cloth (ca. 270 x 105 cm), Egyptian Museum Bonn BoSAe 3154, donated by Annemarie M\u00fcller-Feldmann, origin and dating unclear (photo: P. Linscheid, 2021).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-columns is-layout-flex wp-container-core-columns-is-layout-9d6595d7 wp-block-columns-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-columns is-layout-flex wp-container-core-columns-is-layout-9d6595d7 wp-block-columns-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\" style=\"flex-basis:55%\">\n<p>Alfred Wiedemann (1856\u20131936), the founder of Egyptology in Bonn (fig. 5), who established the first systematic collection of <em>Aegyptiaca<\/em> there in the Museum of Academic Art of Classical Archaeology, also contributed extensive fabric samples from his private collection, although these were apparently completely burned during a bombing on Bonn on October 18, 1944. He also gave similar sets of Pharaonic fabric samples, including high-quality white linen fabrics and bindings from royal mummies, to the Royal Museums of Art and History in Brussels and the Rijksmuseum van Oudheden in Leiden around 1898, where they were fortunately preserved (fig. 6).<a href=\"#_edn4\" id=\"_ednref4\">[4]<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-group is-vertical is-layout-flex wp-container-core-group-is-layout-8cf370e7 wp-block-group-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"785\" height=\"1024\" src=\"http:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-5_wiedemann_Griffith_Institute_Oxford_NEU.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1622\" srcset=\"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-5_wiedemann_Griffith_Institute_Oxford_NEU.jpg 785w, https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-5_wiedemann_Griffith_Institute_Oxford_NEU-230x300.jpg 230w, https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-5_wiedemann_Griffith_Institute_Oxford_NEU-768x1002.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 785px) 100vw, 785px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-small-font-size\">Fig. 5: Alfred Wiedemann (1856\u20131936), founder of Egyptology in Bonn, in 1885 (photo: Griffith Institute\/Oxford, n. d.).<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-columns is-layout-flex wp-container-core-columns-is-layout-9d6595d7 wp-block-columns-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-default is-cropped wp-block-gallery-6 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"600\" data-id=\"1620\" src=\"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-6_Wiedemann_textilecollage_300dpi.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1620\" srcset=\"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-6_Wiedemann_textilecollage_300dpi.jpeg 1024w, https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-6_Wiedemann_textilecollage_300dpi-300x176.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-6_Wiedemann_textilecollage_300dpi-768x450.jpeg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-small-font-size\">Fig. 6: Some of the fabric samples of shrouds and mummy bandages collected by Alfred Wiedemann and donated to the Royal Museums of Art and History in Brussels around 1898, including particularly high-quality royal linen fabrics (photos: V. van Kersen, n. d.).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-columns is-layout-flex wp-container-core-columns-is-layout-9d6595d7 wp-block-columns-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>Social Organization of Weaving in the Pharaonic Nile Valley<\/strong><strong><\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Weaving was a central sector of handicrafts in Pharaonic Egypt and was therefore often depicted in the scenes of daily life in elite tombs, mostly on tomb walls (fig. 7 \u2013 9).<a href=\"#_edn5\" id=\"_ednref5\">[5]<\/a> The richness of detail shown in a painted wooden model of a weaving mill along with a spinning mill, which was found in a tomb from the early Middle Kingdom (around 2000 BC) in Upper Egyptian Thebes (fig. 10) is particularly impressive.<a href=\"#_edn6\" id=\"_ednref6\">[6]<\/a> Here we see several women spinning and stretching out threads and weaving on simple weaving looms that lie on the floor. Only during the New Kingdom (approx. 1550\u20131070 BC) did the technically advanced vertical loom with a vertical frame and corresponding weaving beams (fig. 9) appear alongside this horizontal type, although without completely replacing it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-default is-cropped wp-block-gallery-7 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"670\" data-id=\"1624\" src=\"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-7_MMA-Kopie-N.-de-Garis-Davies_DT204509.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1624\" srcset=\"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-7_MMA-Kopie-N.-de-Garis-Davies_DT204509.jpeg 1024w, https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-7_MMA-Kopie-N.-de-Garis-Davies_DT204509-300x196.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-7_MMA-Kopie-N.-de-Garis-Davies_DT204509-768x503.jpeg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-small-font-size\">Fig. 7: Depictions of women weavers in the tomb of Khnumhotep III in Beni Hasan, Middle Kingdom, 12th Dynasty, c. 1860 BC (facsimile by N. de Garis Davies, 1931, Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, n. d.). The women on the right are spinning linen threads, while the two women on the left are weaving cloth on a horizontal loom, i.e., lying on the floor (depicted from above; cf. fig. 10); in the center is a well-built male overseer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-columns is-layout-flex wp-container-core-columns-is-layout-9d6595d7 wp-block-columns-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>Both women and men were employed in the weaving mill, at least from the Middle Kingdom onward (cf. fig. 7 \u2013 10).<a href=\"#_edn7\" id=\"_ednref7\">[7]<\/a> They were partly organized in workhouses, which means that it is not always easy \u2013 and often virtually impossible \u2013 for us distant observers to identify the distinction between (more or less) voluntary and involuntary labor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-default is-cropped wp-block-gallery-8 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"858\" data-id=\"1626\" src=\"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-8_Vogelsang-Eastwood-2000-fig.-11.4b-1024x858.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1626\" srcset=\"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-8_Vogelsang-Eastwood-2000-fig.-11.4b-1024x858.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-8_Vogelsang-Eastwood-2000-fig.-11.4b-300x251.jpg 300w, https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-8_Vogelsang-Eastwood-2000-fig.-11.4b-768x643.jpg 768w, https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-8_Vogelsang-Eastwood-2000-fig.-11.4b.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"901\" data-id=\"1628\" src=\"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-9_Vogelsang-Eastwood-2000-fig-118.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1628\" srcset=\"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-9_Vogelsang-Eastwood-2000-fig-118.jpeg 1024w, https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-9_Vogelsang-Eastwood-2000-fig-118-300x264.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-9_Vogelsang-Eastwood-2000-fig-118-768x676.jpeg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-small-font-size\">Fig. 8 + 9: Depictions of various weaving processes in the tomb of Djehutinefer in Thebes West (TT 104), New Kingdom, 18th Dynasty, c. 1400 BC: the women on the left are spinning, while the three men on the right are working at the vertical loom, which, unlike the horizontal loom, is not documented before the New Kingdom (c. 1550\u20121070 BC) (Vogelsang-Eastwood 2000: figs. 11.4b, 11.8; Cambridge University Press, Licence, 98197, 2024).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-columns is-layout-flex wp-container-core-columns-is-layout-9d6595d7 wp-block-columns-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-default is-cropped wp-block-gallery-9 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"677\" data-id=\"1630\" src=\"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-10_.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1630\" srcset=\"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-10_.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-10_-300x198.jpg 300w, https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-10_-768x508.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-small-font-size\">Fig. 10: Painted wooden model of a weaving workshop from the tomb of Meketre in Thebes West (TT 280) with two horizontal looms lying on the floor, Middle Kingdom, 11th Dynasty, c. 2000 BC (Egyptian Museum Cairo, JE 46723; now in the National Museum of Egyptian Civilization, Cairo) (photo: M. Attia, n. d.).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-columns is-layout-flex wp-container-core-columns-is-layout-9d6595d7 wp-block-columns-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>This topic also found its way into <em>belles-lettres<\/em> (Egyptian: mdw nfrw). Text and textile production are not directly connected but closely associated in a lamenting verse likely from the late Middle Kingdom entitled <em>Admonitions<\/em>:<a href=\"#_edn8\" id=\"_ednref8\">[8]<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201cThe <em>female musicians <\/em>(xntj.wt) of the weaving looms in the workshops:<br>What they sing for (the goddess) Meret are songs of sorrow,<br>(and) [they] tell [complaints (or similar) at] the millstone\u201d (4, 12\u201313).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Although xntj.wt means \u201cfemale musicians\u201d at the initial lexical level, it is also reminiscent of the word xnr.wt, which is almost identical in its consonant structure and means \u201cperson obliged to work\u201d. In the following verse, the weavers (<em>mr.t<\/em>), who are not explicitly mentioned here, also play a role in an implicit play on words with the goddess of song Meret<a href=\"#_edn9\" id=\"_ednref9\">[9]<\/a>. The analogy between the loom with its threads and the harp with its many strings should also be noted here with regard to the poetic image painted. The core expression for the socio-historical background is the term <em>xnr.t wr.t<\/em>, which, although difficult for us distant observers to determine more precisely in view of the random nature of records being preserved, it can be paraphrased in terms of the European modern era as \u201clarge workhouse\u201d. The dense poetry of this short verse plays with the interweaving of entertaining music against the background of arduous textile production and compulsory labor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>Semites as Slave Laborers on the Nile or Free Workers, or Something In-Between? Case Study of a Weaving Tool From the Second Millennium BC From Illahun With an Alefbetic Owner Inscription<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>From some Hieratic administrative texts from the Egyptian culture, such as the Papyrus Brooklyn 35.1446 from the late Middle Kingdom<a href=\"#_edn10\" id=\"_ednref10\">[10]<\/a>, we know that not only Egyptians but also Semites worked in the weaving mill in the Nile Valley. In fact, the question is how strong the aspect of forced labor was. This question requires a more detailed discussion, which will result in greater differentiation.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>What is known as a <em>heddle jack<\/em><a href=\"#_edn11\" id=\"_ednref11\">[11]<\/a>in the British Museum in London (Inv. No. EA70881) \u2013 i.e., a weaving tool for guiding strands \u2013 with an Alefbetic owner inscription (fig. 11; for its functionality see fig. 12) speaks in favor of a certain social independence and cultural agency. It comes from the workers\u2019 village at the royal pyramid of El Lahun.<a href=\"#_edn12\" id=\"_ednref12\">[12]<\/a> It is particularly noteworthy in terms of written and cultural history due to the owner inscription. This is one of the earliest ever Alefbetic inscriptions and one of the few known from the Nile Valley in the second millennium BC.<a href=\"#_edn13\" id=\"_ednref13\">[13]<\/a> It was possible to identify the material as cedar wood, which indicates that this tool was brought from the Levant region to Egyptian El Lahun.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-default is-cropped wp-block-gallery-10 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"455\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"1632\" src=\"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-11a-_fig-155b.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1632\" srcset=\"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-11a-_fig-155b.jpg 455w, https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-11a-_fig-155b-133x300.jpg 133w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 455px) 100vw, 455px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"724\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"1634\" src=\"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-11b_fig-156b.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1634\" srcset=\"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-11b_fig-156b.jpg 724w, https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-11b_fig-156b-212x300.jpg 212w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 724px) 100vw, 724px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-small-font-size\">Fig. 11a + b: <em>Heddle jack<\/em> from Illahun, British Museum London, EA70881 with Alefbetic owner\u2019s inscription (photo: D. Sabel, n. d.).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-columns is-layout-flex wp-container-core-columns-is-layout-9d6595d7 wp-block-columns-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-default is-cropped wp-block-gallery-11 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"643\" data-id=\"1636\" src=\"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-11c_fig156.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1636\" srcset=\"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-11c_fig156.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-11c_fig156-300x188.jpg 300w, https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-11c_fig156-768x482.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-small-font-size\">Fig. 11c: <em>Heddle jack<\/em> from Illahun, British Museum London, EA70881 with Alefbetic owner\u2019s inscription (drawing: D. Sabel, n. d.; cf. cf. also Gallorini 2009, 118-119, fig. 4).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-columns is-layout-flex wp-container-core-columns-is-layout-9d6595d7 wp-block-columns-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>Large, clearly distinct characters are engraved one after the other in the upper area of the cedar of the <em>heddle jack<\/em>. This dense sequence of four or five characters would be strange for simple craftsman\u2019s marks.<a href=\"#_edn14\" id=\"_ednref14\">[14]<\/a> An interpretation as text, and specifically early Alefbetic text, is therefore likely. The letters are very large and appear to be written somewhat awkwardly. We can read the characters from right to left as personal names <em>AH-al <\/em>\u2013 \u201cThe brother is high\u201d (or similar.).<a href=\"#_edn15\" id=\"_ednref15\">[15]<\/a> &nbsp;In any case, the writing and, in particular the Canaanite Alef-Bet text, which was foreign to the Nile Valley with its major Hieratic and Hieroglyphic text tradition, demonstrates the noteworthy cultural autonomy of the Semitic tool owner. We thus see a remarkably concrete mosaic of social and economic history in the Nile Valley that is also interesting from a socio-historical perspective, yet our overall image of the social organization of the weaving mill (and the possible dependencies or independence of its actors) over three thousand years of Pharaonic history is highly fragmented.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-default is-cropped wp-block-gallery-12 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"454\" data-id=\"1639\" src=\"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-12_Horizontal-Loom.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1639\" srcset=\"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-12_Horizontal-Loom.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-12_Horizontal-Loom-300x133.jpg 300w, https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/MORENZ-FO\u0308RSTER_Fig.-12_Horizontal-Loom-768x341.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-small-font-size\">Fig. 12: Model and functioning of a horizontal Middle Kingdom loom lying on the ground (after Winlock 1922, 73, fig. 2, bottom). The <em>heddle jacks<\/em> arranged in pairs (see Fig. 11) are used to guide the heddles (drawing: A. Sch\u00fcssler, 2024).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-columns is-layout-flex wp-container-core-columns-is-layout-9d6595d7 wp-block-columns-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>Further Reading<\/strong><strong><\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Hagemann, S., 1986. Webstuhl. In: W. Helck &amp; W. Westendorf (Ed.), Lexikon der \u00c4gyptologie Vol. VI, Wiesbaden: Harrassowitz, 1160\u20131161.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Haring, B.,Kaper, O., 2009. Pictograms or Pseudo Script? Non-textual identity marks in practical use in Ancient Egypt and elsewhere. Proceedings of a conference in Leiden 19\u201320 December 2006, Leiden: NINO\/Peeters.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>van Kersen, V., 2021. Alfred Wiedemann, \u00c9mile Brugsch, and the trade in mummy textiles at the end of the 19th century. In: A. De Moor, C. Fluck &amp; P. Linscheid (eds.), Explorers, First Collectors and Traders of Textiles from Egypt of the 1st millennium AD, Veurne: Hannibal Books, 34\u201341.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Vogelsang-Eastwood, G., 1992. The Production of Linen in Pharaonic Egypt, Leiden: Textile Research Centre.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Vogelsang-Eastwood, G., 1993. Pharaonic Egyptian Clothing, Leiden et al.: Brill.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Winlock, H.E., 1922. Heddle-jacks of Middle Kingdom Looms, Ancient Egypt 5, 71\u201374.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-columns is-layout-flex wp-container-core-columns-is-layout-9d6595d7 wp-block-columns-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>Endnotes<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p><a href=\"#_ednref1\" id=\"_edn1\">[1]<\/a> Cf. Morenz &amp; F\u00f6rster 2024.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><a href=\"#_ednref2\" id=\"_edn2\">[2]<\/a> Barta 1963; more specifically for the Old Kingdom: Scheele-Schweitzer 2005.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><a href=\"#_ednref3\" id=\"_edn3\">[3]<\/a> Brunton &amp; Caton-Thompson 1928: 51, pl. XXXVIII, F70k. For further relevant finds from the Predynastic Period (<em>spinning bowls<\/em> from Tell el-Farkha in the Nile Delta), see also M\u0105czy\u0144ska 2012.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><a href=\"#_ednref4\" id=\"_edn4\">[4]<\/a> F\u00f6rster 2020, 31; for Wiedemann as a collector and his academic network at the time, see also F\u00f6rster 2019. For the flourishing trade in mummy textiles (including from royal mummies from the famous cache of Deir el-Bahari, TT320) at the end of the 19th century, in which academics such as Wiedemann, but especially \u00c9mile Brugsch, were also involved, see van Kersen 2021. Cf. also Riggs 2014 and St Clair 2019, 35\u201354 (chapter \u201cDead Men\u2019s Shrouds: Wrapping and Unwrapping Egyptian Mummies\u201d).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><a href=\"#_ednref5\" id=\"_edn5\">[5]<\/a> Recent overviews of the various working processes, organizational units, and textile products incl. their quality spectrum in Vogelsang-Eastwood 1992; 1993; 2000; 2001. Cf. also D\u2019Amicone 1986; Hagemann 1986; Kemp &amp; Vogelsang-Eastwood 2001 and, more generally on the history of fabric production, the entertaining presentation \u201cThe Golden Thread. How fabric changed history\u201d by K.St Clair (2019). For the development of specific tools for textile manufacture between the Levant and Egypt, see Spinazzi-Lucchesi 2018.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><a href=\"#_ednref6\" id=\"_edn6\">[6]<\/a> Winlock 1955, 29\u201333, pls. 25\u201327, 66\u201367 (The spinning and weaving shop, Model H).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><a href=\"#_ednref7\" id=\"_edn7\">[7]<\/a> Cf. Roehrig 1996, 19\u201324.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><a href=\"#_ednref8\" id=\"_edn8\">[8]<\/a> Enmarch 2008.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><a href=\"#_ednref9\" id=\"_edn9\">[9]<\/a> Guglielmi 1991.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><a href=\"#_ednref10\" id=\"_edn10\">[10]<\/a> Hayes 1955.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><a href=\"#_ednref11\" id=\"_edn11\">[11]<\/a> Cf. Winlock 1922; Spinazzi-Lucchesi 2018, 87. The English tool name itself bears very obvious <em>colonial<\/em> connotations\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><a href=\"#_ednref12\" id=\"_edn12\">[12]<\/a> https:\/\/www.britishmuseum.org\/collection\/object\/Y_EA70881 (last accessed: 12.08.2024); cf. Gallorini 2009, 118\u2013119, Fig. 4; Morenz 2019, 221, Fig. 156.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><a href=\"#_ednref13\" id=\"_edn13\">[13]<\/a> Morenz 2019. A more precise dating remains difficult and, for the time being, we must be satisfied with a time period from the Middle to the New Kingdom (approx. 2000\u20131070 BC).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><a href=\"#_ednref14\" id=\"_edn14\">[14]<\/a> Cf. Haring &amp; Kaper 2009.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><a href=\"#_ednref15\" id=\"_edn15\">[15]<\/a> If a taw should actually be present as the fifth large letter, we can read AH-atl\u2013 \u201cThe brother is ruler\u201d. There are also two small letters in this inscription, which repeat the two large letters \u2018lamed\u2019 and \u2018he\u2019; discussion in Morenz 2019, 221, with Fig. 156.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-columns is-layout-flex wp-container-core-columns-is-layout-9d6595d7 wp-block-columns-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>Bibliography<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Barta, W., 1963. Die alt\u00e4gyptische <em>Opferliste<\/em> von der Fr\u00fchzeit bis zur griechisch-r\u00f6mischen Epoche. (M\u00c4S 3), Berlin.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Brunton, G. &amp; G. Caton\u2013Thompson, 1928. The Badarian Civilisation and Predynastic Remains near Badari, British School of Archaeology in Egypt and Egyptian Research Account 46, London: University College &amp; Bernard Quaritch.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>D\u2019Amicone, E., 1986. Stoffe und Webarten. In: W. Helck &amp; W. Westendorf (eds.), Lexikon der \u00c4gyptologie Vol. VI, Wiesbaden: Harrassowitz, 57\u201363.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Enmarch, R. A., 2008. World Upturned: Commentary and Analysis of The Dialogue of Ipuwer and the Lord of All (British Academy Postdoctoral Fellowship Monograph). Oxford.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>F\u00f6rster, F., 2019. Alfred Wiedemann \u2013 Bonner Professor mit vielf\u00e4ltigen Interessen und Kontakten. In: Rheinische Friedrich-Wilhelms-Universit\u00e4t Bonn &amp; Zoologisches Forschungsmuseum Alexander Koenig (ed.), Objektwelten als Kosmos. Von Alexander von Humboldt zum Netzwerk Bonner Wissenschaftssammlungen. Katalog zur Sonderausstellung im Zoologischen Forschungsmuseum Alexander Koenig, Bonn, 14.11.2019 \u2013 22.03.2020, Bad V\u00f6slau: Print Alliance HAV Produktions GmbH, 70\u201372.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>F\u00f6rster, F., 2020. Amulette unter Glas. Einblicke in die Privatsammlung des Bonner \u00c4gyptologen Alfred Wiedemann (1856\u20131936). aMun. Magazin f\u00fcr die Freunde \u00c4gyptischer Museen und Sammlungen, Heft 60 1\/2020. 28\u201335.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Gallorini, C., 2009. Incised Marks on Pottery and Other Objects from Kahun. In: B. Haring &amp; O. Kaper (eds.), Pictograms or Pseudo Script? Non-textual identity marks in practical use in Ancient Egypt and elsewhere. Proceedings of a conference in Leiden 19\u201320 December 2006, Leiden: NINO\/Peeters,&nbsp;107\u2013142.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Guglielmi, W., 1991. Die G\u00f6ttin Mr.t. Entstehung und Verehrung einer Personifikation, Probleme der \u00c4gyptologie 7, Leiden: Brill.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Hagemann, S., 1986. Webstuhl. In: W. Helck &amp; W. Westendorf (eds.), Lexikon der \u00c4gyptologie Vol. VI, Wiesbaden: Harrassowitz, 1160\u20131161.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Haring, B. &amp; O. Kaper (eds.), 2009. Pictograms or Pseudo Script? Non-textual identity marks in practical use in Ancient Egypt and elsewhere. Proceedings of a conference in Leiden 19\u201320 December 2006, Leiden: NINO\/Peeters.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Hayes, W. C., 1955. A Papyrus of the <em>Late Middle Kingdom<\/em> in the Brooklyn Museum, Brooklyn, New York: Brooklyn Museum.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Kemp, B.J. &amp; G. Vogelsang-Eastwood, 2001. The ancient textile industry at Amarna, Excavation Memoir 68, London: Egypt Exploration Society.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>M\u0105czy\u0144ska, A., 2012. Were Spinning Bowls Used in the Predynastic Period? Findings from Tell el-Farkha. In: J. Kabaci\u0144ski, M. Chlodnicki &amp; M. Kubusiewicz (eds.), Prehistory of Northeastern Africa. New Ideas and Discoveries, Studies in African Archaeology 11, Pozna\u0144: Pozna\u0144 Archaeological Museum, 65\u201375.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Morenz, L. D., 2019. Sinai und Alphabetschrift. Die fr\u00fchesten alphabetischen Inschriften und ihr kanaan\u00e4isch-\u00e4gyptischer Entstehungshorizont im Zweiten Jahrtausend v. Chr. Mit Beitr\u00e4gen von David Sabel, Studia Sinaitica 3, Berlin: EB-Verlag.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Morenz, L. D. &amp; F. F\u00f6rster, 2024. Bier versus Wein. Ein \u201afeiner Unterschied\u2019 (auch) in der \u00e4gyptischen Kultur. In: M. Bentz, N. Grube &amp; P. Zeidler (eds.), Abh\u00e4ngig! Globalhistorische Perspektiven auf Ressourcen und Sklaverei, Dresden: Sandstein Verlag.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Riggs, C., 2014. Unwrapping Ancient Egypt: The Shroud, the Secret and the Sacred, London: Bloomsbury.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Roehrig, C.,1996. Women\u2019s Work: Some Occupations of Nonroyal Women as Depicted in Ancient Egyptian Art. In: A.K. Capel &amp; G.E. Markoe (eds.), Mistress of the House, Mistress of Heaven: Women in Ancient Egypt, New York: Hudson Hills Press, 13\u201324.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Scheele-Schweitzer, K., 2005. Die Stofflisten des Alten Reiches. Lexikographie, Entwicklung und Gebrauch, MENES 2, Wiesbaden: Harrassowitz.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Spinazzi-Lucchesi, C., 2018. The Unwound Yarn. Birthand Development of Textile Tools Between Levant and Egypt, Antichistica18 \/ Studiorientali 8, Venezia: Edizioni Ca\u2019 Foscari.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>St. Clair, K., 2019. The Golden Thread. How Fabric Changed History, London: John Murray.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>van Kersen, V., 2021. Alfred Wiedemann, \u00c9mile Brugsch, and the trade in mummy textiles at the end of the 19th century. In: A. De Moor, C. Fluck &amp; P. Linscheid (eds.), Explorers, First Collectors and Traders of Textiles from Egypt of the 1st millennium AD, Veurne: Hannibal Books, 34\u201341.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Vogelsang-Eastwood, G., 1992. The Production of Linen in Pharaonic Egypt, Leiden: Textile Research Centre.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Vogelsang-Eastwood, G., 1993. Pharaonic Egyptian Clothing, Leiden et al.: Brill.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Vogelsang-Eastwood, G., 2000. Textiles. In: P. T. Nicholson &amp; I. Shaw (eds.), Ancient Egyptian Materials and Technology, Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 269\u2013298.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Vogelsang-Eastwood, G., 2001. Weaving, Looms, and Textiles. In: D. B. Redford (ed.), The Oxford Encyclopedia of Ancient Egypt, vol. III, Oxford: Oxford University Press, 488\u2013492.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Winlock, H. E., 1922. Heddle-jacks of Middle Kingdom Looms, Ancient Egypt 5, 71\u201374.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Winlock, H. E., 1955. Models of Daily Life in Ancient Egypt from the Tomb of Meket-Re at Thebes, Publications of the Metropolitan Museum of Art Egyptian Expedition 18, Cambridge, Mass.: Harvard University Press.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Frank F\u00f6rster &amp; Ludwig MorenzBCDSS Investigator &amp; BCDSS Principal Investigator&nbsp; For thousands of years, the color \u201cwhite\u201d was associated with the notion of purity in the Nile Valley, elevating it above the colorful and dirty everyday life. This symbolically charged purity played a major role in the broad field of the sacred in the Pharaonic [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":426,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"themenfeld":[43,47],"class_list":["post-486","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-uncategorized-en","themenfeld-strong-asymmetrical-dependencies","themenfeld-ariadnes-threads"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/486","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=486"}],"version-history":[{"count":21,"href":"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/486\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2804,"href":"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/486\/revisions\/2804"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/426"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=486"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=486"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=486"},{"taxonomy":"themenfeld","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fabrics-of-dependency.uni-bonn.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/themenfeld?post=486"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}